Today I had a moment...

Today I took one of my last runs along the beach. I popped in my ipod shuffle, turned on the capoeira CD my new friend, Tomate, gave to me, and ran with the ocean at my side. I made it all the way to Barra and stopped to watch the sunset. It was one of those empowering moments where your emotions overtake your body... kind of like playing in a Capoeira Roda for the first time. My favorite capoeira song came on, singing about fishermen and their mermaids in the ocean, in the most beautiful chant I've ever heard and my tears started flowing.

I cried because I was so happy and at the same time because I was so sad. I cried over all that I accomplished this summer, and all that I didn't. I cried because I felt so moved by that exact moment and I didn't know what else to do. It just felt right to cry. Crying, with my headphones on, skin sweating, and the sun setting. I am leaving Bahia, but Bahia is not leaving me.

I have grown this summer. I may not have any new answers to those rhetorical questions in life, but I have a stronger soul and a smarter mind. Bahia reminded me of what is important in life, and I hope that I never forget it. Through this blog, and my own journaling, I will remember every moment I spent in Brasil this summer. For sure, I grew as a person, as a woman, as a capoeirista, and as a lost 26-year old trying to figure her life out... I am happy and I am at peace, and there isn't anything else I could ask for.

Thank you for those who sent such wonderful comments and emails to me this summer. I'm glad I was able to share my blog with so many people. This was fun and now I have great documentation of my trip! I look forward to reconnecting with each of you, and to bringing home some of the paz and axé I found in Salvador this summer.

Salvador... Fique tranquilo porque já estou voltando!!!!

Beijos no seu coração,

Já Fui.

*Fadinha*

Political Propaganda

It is that time of the year in Brasil too!  Politics are hot and propaganda is EVERYWHERE. Literally!  

Let me set the scene for you... Cars and vans like the image I've posted above drive around the city all day with large speakers on their roofs (the red box in the picture above).  Each politician has their own "jingle" set to axé music, making it indistinguishable from the music you hear on the streets during Carnaval.  Seriously, if I didn't actually understand the lyrics, my best guess would be that these colorful speakers-on-wheels were for upcoming "festas" in the city!

You can't escape this political propaganda, it is everywhere.  In the two months that I have been here, I have become so familiar with the jingles, that I too can sing along.  Although I know nothing about their political platforms, I sure do know Renato Braga "a voz que faz a diferença", and Professor Carballal "competência que faz história", two candidates for Vereador of Salvador.... and also have some of the most catchy jingles.  

I guess this is political marketing at its best.  In a country where everyone is required to vote (by law), and has a literacy rate of only 88% for its voting population, this is the best strategy possible.  Songs are easy to remember.  Think of how many songs from the radio you have memorized in that head of yours, and apply it to the illiterate (or literate but without access to, or interest in politics).  Their strategy works.  It is cheesy and unprofessional in many ways, but incredibly effective.  I wonder what Obama's mobile-campaign and jingle would be...

Of course they advertise on the television, and on billboards as well.  It isn't all about driving cars and  blasting political hymns!!!  They also hand out pamphlets (I think I've collected over 50 by now) and paint the sides of buildings, walls, and billboards with their names, and their slogans.  Most of it isn't fancy, but it is obvious.  Isn't that the point, anyway? 

Two weekends ago a huge party at the end of my street started around 10PM and lasted until the wee hours of the morning for Renato Braga.  Ivete Sangalo (the pride and joy of Salvador, and Carnaval!) was the special guest and gave me and the rest of the Rio Vermelho neighborhood a free concert!  The best analogy I can make is having someone like Madonna play at a political fundraiser for Barack Obama.... so loudly that no one in the neighborhood can sleep and instead are forced to enjoy the music and thus absorb themselves in the political extravaganza!

It is all over the city, but much more so in areas where you find lower-income communities. My guess is that these are also the neighborhoods with a lower literacy rate, and less of an active interest in, or knowledge of politics.  In richer neighborhoods like Ondina and Barra, you see almost no political propaganda on the streets.  Such is life in the 3rd world...

I have been happy to see just as many female candidates as I have male candidates!   I've spent enough time in Brasil throughout my life to realize how great this is for their country - especially for slower developing cities such as Salvador. 

I chuckle when I see it, but I'll be glad to be far from the mobile-speakers that blow out my ear drums in the middle of the night, or while I'm resting my head against the window inside the ônibus.

Just a few more days in Brazil... 

Meagan

Teatro na Bahia

Destination: Teatro Castro Alves, Campo Grande, Salvador da Bahia.

Featured Artist:  Rosa Passos,  Opening Act: Alexandre Leão

I had a cool experience Sunday evening.  A good friend of mine was visiting from NYC and we treated ourselves to the best type of Brazilian art:  música!  We dressed ourselves up, and after a nice dinner headed to the theater!  Teatro Castro Alves is the “Lincoln Center”, or “Walt Disney Concert Hall” of Salvador.  It is an enormous theater in the middle of a grand plaza in the center of the city.  International groups such as Les Ballets Jazz de Montreal and popular Brazilian artists like Rita Lee perform at Teatro Castro Alves.

Rosa Passos is a world renown Bahian “Cantora de Músicas Românticas” influenced by the likes of Caetano Veloso and João Gilberto.  She is a singer/songwriter with a spunky attitude and wonderful stage presence who helps define Bossa Nova!

Not realizing how popular of an event this is in Salvador, we didn’t reserve tickets in advance.  Upon arrival at the theater, to our disappointment, the show was SOLD OUT!  At R$20.00 a head, Rosa Passos sold out in Salvador!  We knew there would be scalpers, so we decided to be dangerous and scope them out!  Within seconds a scalper approached flashing “ingressos”.   He was charging R$30.00 a head, and we were desperate.  In my poor effort to bargain, we got the two for R$50.00, so R$25.00 a head.   I figured paying 10 extra reais to see a world famous singer was worth it.  But…

As we walked in the theater the guard looked at our tickets and asked us for our student ID’s – which neither of us had.  Apparently, the tickets we had scalped were for the student’s rate of R$10.00!!!  Ugh. Fooled by the scalpers! So much for “blending in” in Bahia! We fell for a classic tourist trap. After pleading and lying to the guard about where we got the tickets, he sent us back to the ticket booth to pay the difference for the upgrade.  Seeing as we had gotten 75% of the way into the show, we decided to suck it up and put down another R$20.00 to upgrade our tickets to regular admission.  So, R$70.00 later, we made it in! 

The first thing I noticed inside the theater was how beautiful the architecture was.  It was enormous inside, and filled with well-dressed Brazilians of all ages.  We waited for the show to start in the open courtyard, sipping on some café com leite with the locals in anticipation of call time!  The theater filled up immediately, surprisingly punctual for Brazilians! Our seats ended up being great with clear views of the stage.  I was so excited to see such a large group of locals at the theater on a Sunday evening.  It was really incredible.

The opening act, Alexandre Leão, was surprisingly pleasing!  His music was upbeat and got the crowd excited.  I had never heard his stuff – it was sort of samba mixed with bossa nova.  His last song required audience participation to serenade the main act onto stage.  “Rosa, Morena, Baiana…” the audience hummed.  Rosa Passos entered the stage with her cute samba shuffle and the crowd went wild!  She took over the mic and before I knew it, the entire audience was singing along to her song.  I thought the karaoke from the audience would stop after the first song.  Nope.  The audience sang along the entire show!  I have been at concerts where the audience sings along, but never in a fancy theater to slow love jams… hahaha.  But in Brazil, they do!  Rosa didn’t seem to mind the added background music and continued to put on a great show.  This clears so much up for me – now I understand why my Brazilian cousin shamelessly sang along to the entire Phantom of the Opera musical when I took her to see it on Broadway! (I was mortified)… But this is how they do it in Brazil!

It was interesting to experience a different social class in Salvador.  Most of my day is spent walking around in areas, or on buses with Brazilians of a lower socio-economic class.   At the Teatro I was exposed to the fancier side of Salvador, reminding me much of a night out in Montreal, or New York. Most of all, I was pleased to see so many Brazilians gathering for a night of leisure, with their families, to appreciate some incredible art.  R$20.00 is a totally reasonable price in Bahia, so I also applaud the Teatro Castro Alves for making their events so available to the public, and believe that this is the only way Rosa Passos can sell-out in Salvador.

Remember, if you’re looking for some good Bossa Nova: Rosa Passos and Alexandre Leão – I give them two thumbs up! 

Meaguinha.

A Criança in Bahia

Today I made a friend.  We didn’t exchange names, and to him I was just “Tia”.  I was on the beach, alone and reading my book when my little friend approached me.  I was ready to say “No, obrigada” while avoiding eye contact, as I do with every other overly persistent vendor on the beach.  But I noticed he was a child, so I listened. 

He asked me to watch his stuff while he went to “tomar um banho”.  In Brasil, we use the phrase “take a bath” when referring to swimming as well as literally taking a bath (in your shower).  His stuff consisted of the clothing he was selling on the beach to make money for his family.   Although I didn’t ask, my guess is that he was about 10 or 11 years old.  Ten years old, and working on the middle of what should have been a school day. 

I told him that I would watch his stuff and make sure it was safe while he swam.  He dropped his stuff, tightened the strings on his sunga and took off towards the ocean.  For a brief moment, in his exhilarating sprint from me to the first breaking wave, he was a kid again. In an odd way, I felt responsible for him, so I watched each dive and breath he took. I watched him swim for over 40 minutes, during which he started to play with some American children - clearly tourists in Bahia.  It was apparent from the beginning of their “playing” that my little Bahian friend was different.  Where the American children played with him as if he were none other than their next-door neighbor in their cute, suburban town, my Bahian criança was clearly aware of the difference in culture, in color, and in life.  There were fewer smiles and hesitant laughs.

He came back to me and thanked me.  I assured him that it wasn’t a problem, and asked how his “bath” was.  He smiled and said “foi muito bom”!  I watched him clear off a piece of wood on the ground next to me and lay down, face up, without a towel to “bronzear”.  This warmed my heart because I fully expected him to take his stuff back and head back to work.  I was happy for the company.

Within minutes another beach vendor approached me selling “salada de frutas”.  My little friend caught my eye and I knew he was hungry after all that swimming.  I slipped him R$2.00 and watched his grin as he jumped up off his piece of wood to proudly purchase a fruit salad for himself.  Within minutes it was finished.  He thanked me and sat back down.

We laid next to each other in silence for a bit and then I started to reapply suntan lotion. He asked if he could use some too.  I smiled to myself because this little boy was so dark that it would be impossible for his skin to burn… or so I thought!  J  I teased him and told him that he was too “Moreno” for sunblock.  He smiled but insisted that his face needed some.  So of course, I shared.  He splashed way too much lotion all over his face, his arms, his stomach, his legs… everywhere!  Unfortunately, this priceless moment wasn’t caught on camera because I usually don’t bring mine to the beach.

He left me within the hour, we shook hands and that was that.  I like to think that he felt happy about our interaction.  I hope that my ability to speak Portuguese and my willingness to help and to share made him feel positive about his interaction with a “tourist”.  I wish I could have asked him so many more questions.  I want to know his name, and his age, and his story.  I want to know if he has ever gone to school, and how many siblings he has.  I want to know if his parents are still alive, and if he has running water in his house. These are questions that I will never have answers to, nor would they have been appropriate to ask at the time.  I can only hope that his work, selling t-shirts to tourists on the beach in Bahia, helps his family in a constructive way.  Pelo menos, eu espero que ele esteja aprendendo coisas que irão lhe deixar uma vida melhor.

Buenos Aires, Argentina!

I've been in Buenos Aires for almost a week now. I'm trying to be as much as a tourist as a capoeirista which means little downtime, and little sleep! In a city that is so reminicent of the energy of New York and the charm of Western Europe, I can hardly believe I am in South America. What I notice most about Buenos Aires, in comparison with other major cities I've visited throughout Central and South America, is how modern and clean it is (well, aside from their inability to clean up after their dogs on the sidewalks, it is pretty clean!). In Brazil, for example, you can be in a wealthy "bairro" but they still don't have the infrastructure to maintain the type of architecture you see here in Buenos Aires. It is really beautiful here, it reminds me a lot of Europe - in particular of certain areas in Spain and Portugal.

I asked an Argentinian friend about poverty in Buenos Aires. She immediately said that they are all poor! I smiled, thinking back to where I am living in Salvador... and then I explained myself. I realize that the Argentian economy is not at its hottest moment, and the Brazilian real is actually stronger than the Argentinian peso, but Buenos Aires does a great job of hiding its difficulties behinds walls of fancy apartment buildings, well-maintained streets, and the apparent lack-of shanty towns in and around the city. I walk on the streets in the middle of the night and feel completely safe here. I would never do this in Brasil, for example. It has a different feeling, a safe and contemporary vibe. I would say a "second-world" experience. :)

In spending time with the Capoeira Brasil Buenos Aires group, I've been invited into homes in neighborhoods that guidebooks would never have taken me to. Areas such as Martinez, San Isidro and Olivos have been some of the greatest discoveries for me in Argentina. They are beautiful cobbled-stone neighborhoods, far from the hustle and bustle of tourist-frequented Centro de Buenos Aires.

I have to do my research, but apparently Argentina is having a problem with "monedas", or small change. As a result, public transportation is affected. A ride on a "Colectivo" or "Subte" is $0.90 centavos, which means that if you give 1 peso, you expect $0.10 centavos back. As a result of the disappearance of monedas, small change has become a precious entity in the city. Often times, public transportation has been free. What I think happens is that as soon as the Subte station runs out of change, they start opening the doors for the public to enter free of charge. There are no electronic booths to buy rides or Subte cards, like in New York, everything is done with cash. I can only imagine the repercussions this city is experiencing as a result. Even something simple like giving pocket change to the homeless is immensely affected.

I don't have a lot of time to write now, but I am enjoying myself. Actually, I am fully indulging in Argentinian culture. I am eating more than I have ever eaten in my life. I am drinking some of the best Vinho I have ever had. I'm watching tango and flamenco, and experiencing some very impressive female-capoeira here in Buenos Aires!

Capoeira Brasil Buenos Aires is a small group of about 15 solid capoeiristas under the instruction of Bugiganga, a professor from Minas Gerais. CB-BA has opened its arms and been a wonderful host to me. The group has great energy and thus far has been one of my favorite to train with down here!

Lots of new photos from Argentina on my photo website: www.fotki.com/meaguinha!

Uruguay is tomorrow, and then back to Salvador to wrap-up my summer.

Até Logo,
Fadinha

Learning a New Skill...

So in general I'm not the most domestic of women... and I push off doing laundry for as long as a can, sometimes up to a month!  I've always admired a Brazilian woman's ability to cook, clean, and well, be domestic.  It is right up there with their ability to be sexy.  Hahah.  It doesn't matter what age, or what profession, they all can do it!  I don't mean this in a sexist way at all, nor am I implying that Brazilian men aren't domestic, I am solely comparing myself to other women here.  

So that being sad, when I arrived and discovered that my house here in Salvador doesn't have a washing machine, I started to count my underwear to figure out if I could last two months! Well, I can't.  I asked the lady who cleans our house where I would be able to wash my clothes and she pointed to the sink outside.  I smiled.  Umm...

So I had to teach myself how to wash my clothing by hand.  My first experience was pretty rough.  I ended up taking a bath in the soap suds and failing to remove any of the dirt from my white abadás.  Then, I hung them to dry only to find them still soaking the next morning because it had rained all night.   

I tried again, this time washing a larger amount of clothing that had accumulated from my first two weeks in Brasil. This time I took three buckets, poured soap into each of them and filled them with water. Then I separated: whites, colors, capoeira stuff.  I let the clothing soak, and mixed them around like you do with cake batter.  I came back in 20 minutes, and took each piece of clothing by hand and rinsed them individually.  I ringed whatever water I could out of them, and hung them to dry.  My second attempt was a bit better, but it still left my clothes smelling moldy and moist.  I live about 50 feet from the ocean, so the air is damp and salty.  

So on my third attempt, which was yesterday, I decided to try a totally new technique.  This time I took each piece by hand, soaping it individually with coconut-flavored soap.  After completely drenching the article of clothing in soap suds, I took a rock and this grated metal-thing (not sure what they call it here), and scrubbed the stains out of my white capoeira clothing.  Then I ringed it to dry, and hung it in a spot with direct sunlight.  It was the greatest arm workout of my life!  Who needs Capoeira.... :p

The second trick is hanging to dry in a strategic way such that they don't have unnecessary wrinkles (I'm without iron and ironing board), and/or dirt from the outdoor clothing lines. Shirts should always be hung from the shoulders, and it is best to use plastic clothes pins, and overlap items for best space management.  Do not dry colored clothing next to white clothing in the chance that the colors bleed while drying.  Do not hang clothing above items you don't want to get wet (like chairs with cotton seat pads)!  Oh, I'm getting so good at this.

I can't figure out which is worse: walking up and down 5 flights of stairs with my laundry in NYC so that a machine can wash it for me, or spending two hours scrubbing my clothing by hand in Brazil!

I head to Argentina on Tuesday!!!

Beijos,

Fadinha

Ginga Sem Limite 2008

I spent the last few days in Siribinha, Bahia.  It is a small village bordering the state of Sergipe in the very north of Bahia.  I reunited with my Capoeira Brasil Los Angeles (CBLA) group and headed up to attend the 4^th International Capoeira Event known as Ginga Sem Limite.  Mestre Itapoan, a world-renown Mestre and original student of Mestre Bimba (creador de Capoeira Regional) hosts this annual event and works extensively with the poor community of Siribinha to make it happen.  Capoeiristas from all over the world fly in to attend Ginga Sem Limite, surrounded by more than 30 Capoeira Mestres. For a capoeirista, it was an opportunity of a lifetime.   We attended workshops taught by each of the Mestres, mingled with students from capoeira groups all over the world, participated in Rodas, watched the locals perform for us, experienced the serenity of Siribinha, and helped support the growth and progress of this local community.

I went to Siribinha right after finishing the book “Three Cups of Tea” – a story about Greg Mortenson and his humanitarian work in Pakistan through the Central Asia Institute.  Mestre Itapoan is doing very similar work in Siribinha, and the effects are already apparent in the community.  The parallels between Mortenson’s work in Pakistan and Mestre Itapoan’s in Siribinha are numerous. I learned that this 5-day event brings in 75% of this town’s annual income.   Since bringing Capoeira and Ginga Sem Limite to Siribinha 4 years ago, Mestre Itapoan has motivated the children to attend school, find jobs, and realize their potentials.  Three young men have left Siribinha to attend University in Salvador, a city 4 hours away, with the support of Mestre Itapoan and Mestre Careca.  Twice a month, Capoeira instructors from Salvador travel to Siribinha to teach (voluntarily) Capoeira class.  Practically all the children and young adults in the village attend these classes.  This is how passionate they have become about this art that has changed their life, and the lives of their families.   For the rest of the month, the children train on their own in a center Mestre Itapoan built especially for them.  

Siribinha has a population of less than 1000 people.  There are no banks, no warm showers, and people wear the same outfit each day.  There is one store that feeds the entire town.  It is very similar to the town of Encarnação that I blogged about earlier, only smaller.  The people are some of the warmest and most honest Brazilians I’ve ever met. For 5 days us “wealthy” capoeiristas from around the world were free to leave our doors unlocked, and valuables visible without worrying about thieves or assaults.  This is a rarity among poor areas in Brazil.   We slept in the houses of these people; in their extra beds and mattresses purchased especially for this event.  There are no hotels or pousadas – lets just say it isn’t much of a tourist destination.  I hope it never becomes one either. It is so beautiful just the way it is.  During the day the locals came to watch and participate in the capoeira workshops, and at night celebrated with us by dancing samba and forro into the wee hours of the morning.  It warms my heart to think about the difference Capoeira has made in Siribinha, and I feel so proud to be a part of it.

It was a first for me to experience so many different “types” of Capoeira. Capoeira Brasil is my group, but we are only 1 of many.  I’ve trained with Capoeira Luanda and Ginga Mundo in Salvador, but in Siribinha I saw dozens of other styles, from all over the world.  We had students from Asia, Australia, Eastern and Western Europe, Chile, Argentina, and of course the United States and Brazil.  Capoeira is an amazing art because you can be anyone, any color, any gender, any religion, come from anywhere, but in the Roda you are one big family.  Your common dialog is your game, making it possible to communicate with anyone.  In your white Abadás and Capoeira Corda you are each a student of Mestre Bimba, and therefore, all the same.

For me, it was a very positive experience.  I had been feeling frustrated with some of the Capoeira I’ve experienced here in Salvador.  In Siribinha I found the Axé and Energia I was looking for…

Capoeira em Encarnação

I took a 2-day trip outside Salvador to visit another Capoeira Luanda group in a small town called Encarnação, no interior da Bahia. Two buses and one ferryboat later, the 3-hour journey took me to one of the most simple and pristine places I have ever visited. It is a fisherman’s village, surrounded by water. The beaches were deserted; the sand was white, and the water crystal clear. We were hosted Instrutor Vagalume and his family. 

Upon arrival in Encarnação we had no address. We were told to get off the bus and ask for “Vagalume”. It seemed strange to me, but I figured he must just be that well known in the community… Well, now I understand why! The “community” is a couple of blocks of cobblestone streets and cement/brick structures within a 1-mile radius. Sure enough, we got off the bus and the first person we asked knew Vagalume, and walked us right to the Capoeira studio where a wonderful Roda welcomed us! We quickly changed into our abadás, and spent the rest of the evening playing Capoeira in the serenity of this quaint little town. The only sound for miles was that of the beating atabaque (drum) and our voices chanting capoeira hymns.

I haven’t blogged much about Capoeira. Even though I train 5 days a week here in Bahia, I haven’t felt compelled to write about it. There are a couple of reasons why, but I think the main reason is that I have so many mixed emotions about Capoeira in Bahia. I’m not ready to put them down on paper yet… but when I am, there will be a long blog entry about it! I will talk a little bit about the Capoeira in Encarnação, however.

Mito and I were the only women in the room. For me, coming from my group in LA, this is a drastic change. Very few women play Capoeira in Bahia, and no women train in Encarnação. When I enter a Roda at a new academy, I never know how my being a woman will be perceived by the fellow capoeiristas. I’m happy to say that one of the nicest receptions I’ve received so far was in Encarnação. They were so happy to have visitors, international visitors, in their small town! Although Capoeira has brought other Americans to their town, it happens infrequently and they are honored each time a new guest arrives.

The studio they train at is pretty much a 3-D cement rectangle. There is nothing inside the room but the Capoeiristas themselves, and their instruments. The floor was dirty; there was no bathroom, and only 1 light in the room. The doors were locked and windows closed to keep out unwanted intruders. There were about 15 men training, ages ranging from 6 to 30 years old. Their games were beautiful. It became quickly obvious that Vagalume is an amazing teacher. He teaches capoeira in Encarnação voluntarily. His students are very poor (as is everyone in this village), and have no money to pay for class. But still, they train every Mon-Wed-Fri, and Vagalume commits to being a role model in capoeira, instilling respect, structure and diligence into their lives. It is pretty incredible. And for this small, humble town, a great opportunity…

After the roda, and a round of photo-taking with Vagalume’s digital camera, we walked backed down the cobble stone streets to Vagalume’s house, took very COLD showers, changed, and headed back out to breath some fresh country air. I actually saw stars in the sky! I had forgotten how beautiful the night sky is without the florescence of NYC’s lights in the background. It was breathtaking. We walked around for 30 minutes in the middle of the night, in the middle of Bahia, in the middle of Brasil, and it was completely quiet and completely safe. There are few places in Brasil where I can say the same.

The next morning we spent the day touring Encarnação with our wonderful host! The first stop was his grandmother’s house, a Condomblé leader in their village. Vagalume’s grandmother hosts the Candomblé ceremonies in a large room in her house. They start at 10 PM and last until 3 AM. She gave us a special tour of the sanctuary, took us to each one of the vigils (1 for each Orixá), and introduced us to her family. Condomblé is a white-magic religion in Bahia. It originated at the same time as Capoeira and was practiced by the slaves. Like capoeira, it involves drumming, chanting, and dancing. It is very beautiful and provocative. I’ve seen Condomblé ceremonies in the past while in Brasil, and I’ve always been intrigued. We were so lucky to have a personal guide in Encarnação! As the leader of their group, his grandmother blessed us each with our own Orixá (basically, a spirit or god) and mine is Oxoss – the night and shining armor on the white horse. Candomblé followers believe that each individual has a particular Orixá who watches over them until death. Sort of like a guardian angel, but a stronger, more physical connection. Before leaving the sanctuary, she bathed us in rose perfume water, danced for us, showered us with lembranças (souvenirs), made us take about 100 pictures in the sanctuary, and asked for our donations. 

Encarnação makes Salvador look like the first world! The simplicity of life there is indescribable. You have to see it to understand it. It is bittersweet though. The beauty is incomparable but the poverty is prolific. No one works, no one plays, and no one does much of anything because there isn’t anything to do. There are no jobs if you don’t fish. Schools are sparse and the center of town consists of 1 payphone, 1 local bar, and a bus stop. I think I probably met just about everyone in this village – most of them were cousins or 2nd cousins of Vagalume. His grandmother had 12 children… You can imagine the color Capoeira adds to this community. Vagalume has done a lot for his town, and it was through complete serendipity that Mestre Jelon brought capoeira to this small town 8 years ago. I wish them the best of luck in trying to raise money to build their own Capoeira academy. 

Encarnação, it was lovely. And it reminded me of how lucky I am.

Açai na Tigela com Granola e Banana

This is my breakfast every morning. Açai na Tigela (bowl) with Granola and Banana. Mmm. Açai is probably the single most delicious purple berry in the world.  Since I've been in Salvador, I've been trekking around the city visiting all of my favorite Açai spots!  Thank goodness I'm playing a lot of Capoeira because each bowl contains a ridiculous amount of calories - but "good" calories!  Hahah.. It is a "wonder berry" from the Amazon region known to have more anti-oxidants than blueberries, pomegranites, etc.,  It is one of the things I long for the most when I'm not in Brazil. There are many versions and brands of Açai in the States, but none of them do it justice, at least none that I've tried. So each morning, I wake up, have an Agua de Coco and then walk to Barra beach to have my morning Açai.  It is my favorite part of the day!  Mmm...

Riding the Bus in Bahia

Since my entire existence in Brazil is 100% reliant on the bus system of Salvador, I figure now is an appropriate time to introduce you to what is definitely the most “loco” method of public transportation that I have ever experienced.   I have spent months at a time in Brazil in the past, but always with the luxury of a family member, or a friend, to drive me around in their car.  This time lets just say I’m roughing it third-world style via ônibus todo dia!

I have never felt so desperate for a car in my life.  After 2 ½ years in Los Angeles, I thought the desire to drive would never reappear… until this summer in Salvador!  Hahah.  Okay, I’m exaggerating.  But seriously, if you think rush hour on the subways in NYC is bad on a sweltering summer day, well, you ain’t seen nothing yet!  These Bahians fit more people on a bus than physically possible.   I think I finally understand why Brazilians act the way they do in airports!  Just read on, and I think you’ll agree!

A brief tour of the Brazilian bus system:

How to Catch the Bus

a.      Finding the right waiting spot: Each bus stop is marked by a little blue sign with a white picture of a bus.  This is about as organized as it gets.  The bus stop is usually along a curb, but this doesn’t necessarily mean the bus will stop by the designated sign, or “ponto”.  Actually, depending on the speed of the bus arriving, the time of the day, and the number of other buses arriving at the same time, the bus you want to catch may stop anywhere in a 50 foot radius of that sign.  So, first tip: be ready to run!  If you are too close to the sign, your bus may be stuck behind a long line of other buses, and if you are too far away from the sign, your bus may zoom in front of you before you realize… and you’ll be waiting for the next one!  Your best bet is to judge where the middle “waiting ground” is at your particular bus stop. Make sure you avoid puddles (it rains a lot at this time of the year!) and have a clear path in front of you at all times so that when it is your turn to sprint…. You catch your bus!

b.      Finding the right Bus: So unlike most organized methods of public transportation, there are no bus maps or schedules in Salvador.  Actually, you’re lucky if when you arrive at a bus stop there is a list of buses that pass by your stop.  By list, I mean all the “names” of buses – there are no numbers, just names of neighborhoods in the direction of travel.  Very interesting, or rather difficult, for a non-local as myself!  So needless to say, without knowing which neighborhoods are which, it becomes a gamble!  The best thing to do is figure out some landmarks that are close to where you are headed, because each bus, on its front windshield, has a list of popular landmarks that it stops at.  However, be reminded that you can only read this list when the bus is passing right in front of you – so don’t forget your glasses!

c.      Hailing the Bus: Okay, so in New York we hail taxis and buses by raising our hands. You’d think this is universal.  However, Brazilians have a very unique style!  They don’t raise their hands higher than their hips. In fact, they seem to have perfected this twitch of the wrist to hail the buses.  It reminds me of what dancers would call “jazz hands”!  They flick their wrists, jazz-hand style, and some how, the bus driver notices!  I’m still working on mine…

2.     Getting on the Bus 

      Once you’ve figured which bus is yours, hailed it, you still need to get on it!  Never wear high heels, because jumping in high heels is dangerous. Often times, if it is rush hour, the bus doesn’t actually come to a complete stop. It does what we love to call a “California Roll” through the bus stop.  So most times, you, and about 10 others are jumping on the bus (everyone enters from the back) as it slowly rolls-through.  Once you are safely on, you have to pay the driver R$2.00 and push yourself through a turn-style.  Yes, all of the buses have turn-styles!  Hahah… I love it.  Sometimes you really need to use your core strength to get you through too because you’re moving in the opposite direction of the bus’ momentum.  It’s a good warm-up for Capoeira class 

3.     Riding the Bus

     If you are lucky, you’ll get a seat.  If you’re not so lucky, you’ll be standing.  I often ride the bus at rush hour because Capoeira class is in the evening.  I have to leave 2 hours before class to get there because of transito (traffic).  In actuality, it is only 6 miles from my house!  A bus during rush hour is a claustrophobic’s worst nightmare!  The buses are already narrow to begin with.  During rush hour, there is no space to breath.  People shove themselves into any space possible, and just when you think you can’t possible fit another hand, leg, or head on the bus, 10 more get on!  I have never been so acquainted with the armpits of others!  :p

4.     Getting off the Bus

     So you’re thinking, phew, finally off this bus!  But wait, you’re not there yet!  Getting off the bus is just as much as a process!  First of all, there are no announcements along the way, so unless you are paying attention to landmarks outside, you’ll have no idea when to get off.  Try as hard as you can to peek your head through the hands and arms of others to see out the window.  Pay attention, and familiarize yourself with landmarks well in advance of your stop because you need at least 5 minutes to fight your way through the crowd to exit the bus at the front.  There is only one exit, and it is at the front!  Another tip: don’t carry a lot of baggage with you, and try to make yourself as skinny as possible by sucking in your stomach – this will make your fight to the front much easier! As you’re walking (or shoving your way rugby-style) to the front, don’t forget to jump up and pull the black cord alerting the driver of your requested stop!  It is funny, Brazilians are short, and that black cord is so damn high.  You think they’d come up with a better solution!

 And finally, you’re off the bus… and you can breath! 

What can I say it is back to basics for me, I suppose.  No car, no cell phone, no landline… just me, myself, and the ônibus.   And I love it!

Beijos,

Meagan

Dance Brazil

Last night I had the opportunity to see an incredible display of Brazilian dance, capoeira, and culture here in Bahia.  The group is called Dance Brazil, lead by Mestre Jelon of Capoeira Luanda. Many of the dancers are the Capoeiristas I'm training with here in Salvador.  Luckily, they were having a formal dress rehersal open to friends and family last night at Espaço Xisto here in Bahia.  I went with Mestre Jelon, Mito, and a few others. It took my breath away, and made me want to jump up on stage and dance with them all at once!  They incorporate capoeira, ballet, modern, and afro-brazilian dance into their moves.  The music is independently composed for the show, and is electrifying - drums, berimbau, keyboard, guitar, vocals...

Dance Brazil is internationally renown and travels extensively through North America and Europe.   Speaking of... they are flying to New York on July 25th for several performances in both New York and Boston.  To all you New Yorkers, check them out!  It is definitely worth it!

http://www.dancebrazil.org/

I've been busy... will write more soon!

Meagan

Colorful Brazilians...

Last night I went to a local bar to “tomar uma capirinha” with my housemate, Rildo, and some of his Brazilian friends. It was an interesting crowd: Rildo, my housemate, who is a 42 year-old translator, speaks 5 languages, smokes and drinks way more than he should, and believes in living life “au natural”. Fabio, a young, educated and very successful Bahian, who when the law passed for no drinking and driving, decided to sell his car and succumb to the “ônibus” because he couldn’t give up his addiction to brazilian cerveja (beer). Saraja e Rubinha, a lesbian couple who also happen to be 1^st cousins with a 13 year age difference, hence are the scandals of their family (in their words, not mine!). Vagabondo, the local vagabound whose name I didn’t quite catch, but refers to himself as a “vagabondo”, who left his mother in Zaragosa, Spain to return to his native country and pursue teatro (theater). And of course, myself, the “local” American Capoeirista with a little bit of Brazilian soul!

So I made my first mistake by introducing myself as an “Americana”. I immediately saw eyebrows rise. These sharp-witted and clearly educated Brazilians were quick to claim that they too, are “Americanos”. In reality, we are all Americanos. It is an indistinguishable term. Unless, of course, I specify, “Americana do Nord” (North American), which is still ambiguous as it refers to Canada, U.S.A, and Mexico. It sounds silly, and to most of us Americans, a waste of an argument, but to these passionate Brazilians who feel so strongly (against) American politics, it is a very significant difference. So I promised to them, and to myself, from here on out to introduce myself as “ Meu nome é Meagan e sou dos Estados Unidos”. They have a point, and I think it is a good one.

You can imagine how the rest of the night went after starting off on that note! Saraja had an earful to say about our President Bush, pronounced here as “Bushy”. I smile, just thinking about it. So fitting. It made for some very one-sided conversations, though. I have a hard enough time talking politics in English, let alone in Portuguese. But it was fun. I had a good time, and I think convinced them that not all of us from the United States are in agreement with our “ President Bushy”.

Axé e Capoeira

In Capoeira, we believe that your game will never exceed that of the Axé (the energy) of the Roda. Good Axé brings upon good games, and vice versa.  For those of you who have never seen Capoeira, a roda is the circle that we play in. Capoeiristas and the Orchestra form the circumference of the circle, and create the energy.  This is done through song, instruments, clapping, and movement.  By facing the center of the circle, the Axé is maintained within and the two capoeiristas playing move to the rhythm of the berimbau and at the level of Axé within the Roda.

Last night I experienced what it was like to have Axé when you least expect it, and saw what it did to my game.  At the end of a class, training with Mestre Jelon's group in Salvador, we had a Roda.  There was nothing energetic about the setting.  It was dark, damp, and muggy in the room. The floor was torn concrete and the stench of the uncleaned bathroom was overwhelming. We were sweaty, and dirty, full of mosquito bites, and there were only 7 of us. It was essentially an open shack in the middle of a low-income area in Salvador with a somber feeling to it.  But it was beautiful.

Maybe it is the energy of Brasil itself, or the energy of Capoeira, but I have never felt so drawn to the Roda as I did last night.  I don't remember any of my games, which is how I know that I succeeded in letting the matter in my body take over my mind.  But I do remember how I felt. I felt like I was flying.  I felt like I was really, really playing Capoeira.  In Capoeira, you have to feel the game. You can't think through the game like a math problem; there is not 1 solution applicable to every game.  Every game is different. There is a different energy level, a different opponent, a different song, a different setting.  The capoeiristas I played in the roda with moved so fluidly, almost weightless, with an eye contact so intense that you knew exactly when to esquiva.  It was the real dialog that IS capoeira. I rose to the level of their game, and I thank them for allowing me to do so.

And the most unique thing about last night... there were no instruments, there was no singing, and no clapping - just the 7 of us, breathing, focusing, and an ipod chanting in the background. But the energy, the Axé of the Brazilian capoeiristas in the room, was overwhelming.  You could feel it and you could taste it, and it was the most fun I've ever had in a Roda. 

Beijos

Meagan

Flying like a Brazilian...

Okay, a bunch of you have requested that I blog while I'm down here.  I do have to say that writing is not a forté of mine, but I'll give it a shot.  If anything, it will refresh me of my english as I immerse myself in Portuguese for the next 8 weeks. 

So I figure my first posting will be about my trip down here.  I flew on TAM, the only Brazilian airline left after Varig's bankruptcy. There is something very unique about a Brazilian's inability to follow directions at an airport.  I can't help but laughing each time the airline steward calls (in portuguese, of course) for passengers traveling with small children or elderly to board first.  At this point, all 200 of the brazilian travelers have already lined up, across two or three airport gates waiting to board this flight, fighting for their spot at the front of the line. And of course, no one listens to the announcements. Or, rather, no one cares.  So instead of allowing small children and the elderly to board, a stampede of Brazilian women with their tight jeans and high heels rush towards the front, thrusting their numerous hand bags at whoever is in their way.  Believe me, these are tough women.... And of course, none of the airline staff choose to enforce the boarding priority, and thus they get away with it. For as long as I've flown to and from Brazil, this has always been the case.  I still can't understand why.  So if you are ever in an airport and see a herd of people rushing to board in the most disorganized and loud fashion, it isn't because Michael Jackson is on the other side, it is just a bunch of Brazilians! 

Once you are on the plane, you are greeted by the "Aero-Moças".  Literal translation: "Air-Girls".  So the Air Girls greet you, offer you water, and a sweet candy to chew on, and then return to their seats.  The Air Girls wear body-suit-like matching outfits, excentuating each curve in their body. So Brazilian, right?  The outfit is topped off with two inch heels that look painfully uncomfortable to be wearing for a 9 hour overnight flight.  The Air Girls give out the cutest packages to each traveler. They include blankets, ear phones, slippers (yes!), toothbrush and toothpaste, and a duty-free shopping guide.  Along with the goody-bags, the food is great (for airline food) and it is all complimentary. It has been a long time since I've flown with such luxuries :) 

The third most impressionable moment about flying with the Brazilians was passing through "customs" in Såo Paulo.  I have a Brazilian passport, so I was able to pass through the "natives" line at customs.  This is what it involved: opening my passport to the picture page and smiling. The customs lady didn't even take the passport out of my hand.   I didn't get asked any questions, I didn't have to show anyone my luggage - none of that.  I just had to smile.  Believe me, after living in Montreal for 5 years and dealing with customs at the Canadian border, this experience was unbelievable.  

So after all the Filas, Aero-Moças, e Customs I'm here. I'm safe, and I'm in Salvador!  

Beijos,

Fadinha

E agora, Eu vou...

July 2nd, 2008.  Today I leave NYC for two months of travel and Capoeira in South America.  I'm excited, I'm nervous, and já estou com saudades. It has been three years since I've been back to Brasil. Those of you who know me well understand why.  It is also my first time in Brasil as a Capoeirista.  I can't wait!

My first stop:  Rio Vermelho, Salvador da Bahia.

Até logo, Gente!

Beijinhos....

Meagan