Sunday, August 10, 2008

Buenos Aires, Argentina!

I've been in Buenos Aires for almost a week now. I'm trying to be as much as a tourist as a capoeirista which means little downtime, and little sleep! In a city that is so reminicent of the energy of New York and the charm of Western Europe, I can hardly believe I am in South America. What I notice most about Buenos Aires, in comparison with other major cities I've visited throughout Central and South America, is how modern and clean it is (well, aside from their inability to clean up after their dogs on the sidewalks, it is pretty clean!). In Brazil, for example, you can be in a wealthy "bairro" but they still don't have the infrastructure to maintain the type of architecture you see here in Buenos Aires. It is really beautiful here, it reminds me a lot of Europe - in particular of certain areas in Spain and Portugal.

I asked an Argentinian friend about poverty in Buenos Aires. She immediately said that they are all poor! I smiled, thinking back to where I am living in Salvador... and then I explained myself. I realize that the Argentian economy is not at its hottest moment, and the Brazilian real is actually stronger than the Argentinian peso, but Buenos Aires does a great job of hiding its difficulties behinds walls of fancy apartment buildings, well-maintained streets, and the apparent lack-of shanty towns in and around the city. I walk on the streets in the middle of the night and feel completely safe here. I would never do this in Brasil, for example. It has a different feeling, a safe and contemporary vibe. I would say a "second-world" experience. :)

In spending time with the Capoeira Brasil Buenos Aires group, I've been invited into homes in neighborhoods that guidebooks would never have taken me to. Areas such as Martinez, San Isidro and Olivos have been some of the greatest discoveries for me in Argentina. They are beautiful cobbled-stone neighborhoods, far from the hustle and bustle of tourist-frequented Centro de Buenos Aires.

I have to do my research, but apparently Argentina is having a problem with "monedas", or small change. As a result, public transportation is affected. A ride on a "Colectivo" or "Subte" is $0.90 centavos, which means that if you give 1 peso, you expect $0.10 centavos back. As a result of the disappearance of monedas, small change has become a precious entity in the city. Often times, public transportation has been free. What I think happens is that as soon as the Subte station runs out of change, they start opening the doors for the public to enter free of charge. There are no electronic booths to buy rides or Subte cards, like in New York, everything is done with cash. I can only imagine the repercussions this city is experiencing as a result. Even something simple like giving pocket change to the homeless is immensely affected.

I don't have a lot of time to write now, but I am enjoying myself. Actually, I am fully indulging in Argentinian culture. I am eating more than I have ever eaten in my life. I am drinking some of the best Vinho I have ever had. I'm watching tango and flamenco, and experiencing some very impressive female-capoeira here in Buenos Aires!

Capoeira Brasil Buenos Aires is a small group of about 15 solid capoeiristas under the instruction of Bugiganga, a professor from Minas Gerais. CB-BA has opened its arms and been a wonderful host to me. The group has great energy and thus far has been one of my favorite to train with down here!

Lots of new photos from Argentina on my photo website: www.fotki.com/meaguinha!

Uruguay is tomorrow, and then back to Salvador to wrap-up my summer.

Até Logo,
Fadinha