Since my entire existence in Brazil is 100% reliant on the bus system of Salvador, I figure now is an appropriate time to introduce you to what is definitely the most “loco” method of public transportation that I have ever experienced. I have spent months at a time in Brazil in the past, but always with the luxury of a family member, or a friend, to drive me around in their car. This time lets just say I’m roughing it third-world style via ônibus todo dia!
I have never felt so desperate for a car in my life. After 2 ½ years in Los Angeles, I thought the desire to drive would never reappear… until this summer in Salvador! Hahah. Okay, I’m exaggerating. But seriously, if you think rush hour on the subways in NYC is bad on a sweltering summer day, well, you ain’t seen nothing yet! These Bahians fit more people on a bus than physically possible. I think I finally understand why Brazilians act the way they do in airports! Just read on, and I think you’ll agree!
A brief tour of the Brazilian bus system:
How to Catch the Bus
a. Finding the right waiting spot: Each bus stop is marked by a little blue sign with a white picture of a bus. This is about as organized as it gets. The bus stop is usually along a curb, but this doesn’t necessarily mean the bus will stop by the designated sign, or “ponto”. Actually, depending on the speed of the bus arriving, the time of the day, and the number of other buses arriving at the same time, the bus you want to catch may stop anywhere in a 50 foot radius of that sign. So, first tip: be ready to run! If you are too close to the sign, your bus may be stuck behind a long line of other buses, and if you are too far away from the sign, your bus may zoom in front of you before you realize… and you’ll be waiting for the next one! Your best bet is to judge where the middle “waiting ground” is at your particular bus stop. Make sure you avoid puddles (it rains a lot at this time of the year!) and have a clear path in front of you at all times so that when it is your turn to sprint…. You catch your bus!
b. Finding the right Bus: So unlike most organized methods of public transportation, there are no bus maps or schedules in Salvador. Actually, you’re lucky if when you arrive at a bus stop there is a list of buses that pass by your stop. By list, I mean all the “names” of buses – there are no numbers, just names of neighborhoods in the direction of travel. Very interesting, or rather difficult, for a non-local as myself! So needless to say, without knowing which neighborhoods are which, it becomes a gamble! The best thing to do is figure out some landmarks that are close to where you are headed, because each bus, on its front windshield, has a list of popular landmarks that it stops at. However, be reminded that you can only read this list when the bus is passing right in front of you – so don’t forget your glasses!
c. Hailing the Bus: Okay, so in New York we hail taxis and buses by raising our hands. You’d think this is universal. However, Brazilians have a very unique style! They don’t raise their hands higher than their hips. In fact, they seem to have perfected this twitch of the wrist to hail the buses. It reminds me of what dancers would call “jazz hands”! They flick their wrists, jazz-hand style, and some how, the bus driver notices! I’m still working on mine…
2. Getting on the Bus
Once you’ve figured which bus is yours, hailed it, you still need to get on it! Never wear high heels, because jumping in high heels is dangerous. Often times, if it is rush hour, the bus doesn’t actually come to a complete stop. It does what we love to call a “California Roll” through the bus stop. So most times, you, and about 10 others are jumping on the bus (everyone enters from the back) as it slowly rolls-through. Once you are safely on, you have to pay the driver R$2.00 and push yourself through a turn-style. Yes, all of the buses have turn-styles! Hahah… I love it. Sometimes you really need to use your core strength to get you through too because you’re moving in the opposite direction of the bus’ momentum. It’s a good warm-up for Capoeira class
3. Riding the Bus
If you are lucky, you’ll get a seat. If you’re not so lucky, you’ll be standing. I often ride the bus at rush hour because Capoeira class is in the evening. I have to leave 2 hours before class to get there because of transito (traffic). In actuality, it is only 6 miles from my house! A bus during rush hour is a claustrophobic’s worst nightmare! The buses are already narrow to begin with. During rush hour, there is no space to breath. People shove themselves into any space possible, and just when you think you can’t possible fit another hand, leg, or head on the bus, 10 more get on! I have never been so acquainted with the armpits of others! :p
4. Getting off the Bus
So you’re thinking, phew, finally off this bus! But wait, you’re not there yet! Getting off the bus is just as much as a process! First of all, there are no announcements along the way, so unless you are paying attention to landmarks outside, you’ll have no idea when to get off. Try as hard as you can to peek your head through the hands and arms of others to see out the window. Pay attention, and familiarize yourself with landmarks well in advance of your stop because you need at least 5 minutes to fight your way through the crowd to exit the bus at the front. There is only one exit, and it is at the front! Another tip: don’t carry a lot of baggage with you, and try to make yourself as skinny as possible by sucking in your stomach – this will make your fight to the front much easier! As you’re walking (or shoving your way rugby-style) to the front, don’t forget to jump up and pull the black cord alerting the driver of your requested stop! It is funny, Brazilians are short, and that black cord is so damn high. You think they’d come up with a better solution!
What can I say it is back to basics for me, I suppose. No car, no cell phone, no landline… just me, myself, and the ônibus. And I love it!
Beijos,
Meagan
